
Super User
Lieta Marziali
UK
My work spans jewellery to writing, researching and curating, and mentoring and teaching. Importantly, they are for me just different manifestations of making, equally central to my personal and spiritual growth and the process of making me in an art practice that is, in the same way Italian writer Italo Calvino referred to literature, " an existential function, ... a search for knowledge"*. This "wisodm as practice"**, as defined by the contemporary German philosopher Peter Sloterdijk, is then by default slow and mindful, not only of the provenance, destination and context of each project, but also of my natural cycles of thinking, making and, most crucially, reflection. My practice is both a platform and a method for reflection and philosophical enquiry: a personal space in which to ask myself questions, test answers and reactions, and understand how I think and why. It is how I raise my awareness of myself and of how I navigate in the cosmos. In the Socratic spirit that knowledge is virtue, I am driven by the desire to always become a better person. Deeply rooted in mindfulness, my practice is where I learn to exist as an integral, rather than dominant, part of all that surrounds me, resulting in a radical ethical approach. The need to investigate, uncover, say, comment or express creates the narrative that fills most of my work. This story-telling takes the form of jewellery pieces which are, at the same time, a means to and an expression of my questioning, reflection and growth, and an invitation to the viewers and wearers to also question, reflect and grow by, quite literally, embracing them close to their bodies.
A new piece will first manifest itself sometimes from simply holding a found object, sometimes from a recurring word or phrase (often already a title!) echoing in my head, or more often from a situation, a moment of clarity, or the need to understand something or to share a line of personal enquiry. Materials, with no hierarchy of value, are included simply according to how they fit this process. Any hesitation as to their choice is a vital clue to me that my question or answer is not sufficiently clear and a piece is not ready to be made, and I cannot and must not force it into material existence. When the moment is right, assembling is normally fast and instinctive, and my design process is dictated by an innate make-do attitude: as with everything else in life, I thrive on applying my knowledge to constructive problem solving and finding low-tech workable solutions from available resources and basic staples.
Most of my jewellery work then comes to be embodied in a one-off piece or small ensemble. Very rarely, I have happened upon questions that have worked at an even slower pace but the need to externalise them has been stronger, in the path of understanding them, than the importance to find clear answers. And this is where my occasional series are born, never knowingly finite but projects that need to remain open to reflection and enquiry, to be re-examined and re-explored until that time when they might feel resolved.
Words and language are for me another material which accompanies me through the making process, and their manipulation is just as essential a factor in determining how the work will finally manifest itself. As a result, titles are never just a necessity or an afterthought and instead, whether at the origin of its concept, or as a final reflection, they form an integral part of each piece.
Most important of all, I have learnt that the "studio" for me is far from being confined to the walls of my physical workshop and it extends to wherever I happen to be at any particular moment, processing information, asking new questions, reflecting. Over the years, I have learnt to listen to the rhythms of my thinking and to let them guide me: be it the workshop, the keyboard, the pen, the classroom, a book or a museum, my workstation stays fluid. And whereas I used to be daunted by not making enough, I have come to understand that "making" does not necessarily equate to a new jewellery piece. And so I now confidently reach for the bench only when it calls. And, when it is time, it always does.
Renata Manganelli
Italia
La mia visione del gioiello contemporaneo non prescinde dal gioiello come ornamento e pertanto non mette in discussione ne l’estetica del bello ne l’indossabilita’ del monile. La mia ricerca punta a dare un’identita’ , una funzionalita’ al gioiello al di fuori del corpo che lo indossa, trasformandolo in oggetto, integrandolo in una scultura, in un quadro, in una prospettiva piu’ ampia. La nuova collezione dei GIOIELLI VIRALI nasce dalla passione per le immagini del microscopio elettronico, per quel mondo mistertioso che si cela dietro le apparenze della materia. I microrganismi con la loro affascinante e complessa architettura diventano gioielli, sculture, immagini. Qusto progetto cerca anche di essere un ponte fra arte e scienza e di poter finanziare la ricerca sulle nuove terapie geniche. I gioielli, combinano elementi forgiati con le tecniche tradizionali della gioielleria classica ad altri frutto della ricerca e delle nuove tecnologie di modellazione e stampa 3D. L’arte e la tecnologia, la macchina e la mano oggi come non mai hanno bisogno l’una dell’altra. Mescolare le nuove tecnologie con quelle piu’ tradizionali in gioielleria come in altri campi significa per me aver capito che la tecnologia ha bisogno della manualita’ e della creativita’ dell’uomo tanto quanto l’uomo ha bisogno di essa per superare i limiti della sua natura.
My personal view on Contemporary Jewellery does not challenge the wearability or aesthetical point of view, which has already been investigated from nearly a 100 years ago. My research is focused on giving the jewel a new function, a life beyond the body, transforming it into an object, a part of a sculpture or a painting, creating a broader perspective. My new collection VIRAL JEWELLERY comes from my long-standing passion for electronic microscope images, that mysterious world hidden behind our tangible existence. Microorganisms with their fascinating and complex structure become jewels, sculptures, images. This project aims to be a link between art and science and is looking to fund the research on genic therapy. The jewels combine elements created with the traditional jewellery techniques alongside elements coming from the new 3D modeling techniques. Mixing new technologies with more traditional techniques in jewelry as in any project means being aware that technology is empty without the human hand and creativity and that man needs technology to overcome his limits.
Lucilla Giovanninetti
Italia
Il mio interesse per il gioiello risale all’università, quando inizio a studiarlo dal punto di vista storico e iconografico. In seguito approfondisco le mie conoscenze sul piano stilistico e formale. Negli anni insegno storia del gioiello in alcune scuole di design, ma mi piace anche seguirne la progettazione da parte degli studenti. E poi apprendo come lavorare con i metalli, con la cera, con gli smalti. Da qualche anno la mia ricerca si è orientata verso un possibile connubio fra metallo e tessuto, ma ultimamente il tessuto è diventato protagonista, indurito con resine, per ottenere volumi importanti, organici, ma leggerissimi.
Mi interessa la progettualità, partendo dalla forma piana ritagliata nel tessuto, che viene dipinto, elaborato, cucito, indurito con resine. Mi affascina lo stupore davanti alla materia, la sua leggerezza, l’elaborazione cromatica, a volte la non-piacevolezza estetica.
My interest in jewelry goes back to my years at the university when I began to study it from a historical and iconographic point of view. As a I deepened my knowledge both on a stylistic and formal level. Over the years I have taught history of jewelry in several design schools but I have also enjoyed following the design of the students. I have learned how to work with materials such as metals, wax and glaze.
For several years now my research has been oriented towards a possible bond between metal and fabric, but lately the fabric has become the key player, hardened by resin, to obtain large volumes which are consistent but very light.
My interest lies with the design process, starting from the flat shape cut from the fabric that then gets painted, elaborated upon, sewn and hardened with resin. I am truly fascinated by the wonder behind the material; its lightness, its chromatic processing, and at times its unpleasant aesthetics.
Mineri Matsuura
Japan
Mineri Matsuura was born in Tokyo in 1973 and graduated in the metal craft department of Musashino Art University in 1998. Since graduation she set up her own studio and has had numerous exhibitions in her home country and abroad. In 2019 she was selected for Gioielli in Fermento, an international contemporary jewellery contest and she was awarded "AGC Special Mention", "Klimt02 Special Mention". Also in the same year she was awarded TECHNIQUE prize in the ALLIAGES Lagacy Award 2019 in France. She is surprised and humbled by the reception of her work in Europe. So it gives her more incentive to create new and more challenging pieces in her medium.
As a Japanese her inspiration comes from her countries architecture, art, nature and the influence of Zen Buddhism on its culture. The process that evolves with this medium that she works in is actually quite simple as in the end result the cut plate pieces emerges as if mysteriously into a three-dimensional form. It seems so natural like a metamorphosis of nature similar to a caterpillar that turns into a butterfly. Everytime it gives her a fresh perspective and she is amazed to see the new various forms that are created and so she feels it is like a Zen-like feeling of reawakening (Nirvana) into a new existence that flows from such a simple process to the finished piece.
Gioielli in Fermento 2019
Museo di Storia Naturale del Mediterraneo
We are glad to invite You to the opening in Livorno - Museo di Storia Naturale del Mediterraneo
Tuesday June 4th at 6pm
via Roma 234, Livorno, Italy
La mostra prosegue fino al 9 giugno
exhibition until June 9th
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Opere in concorso di | Selected works by
Miki Asai Sara Barbanti Maura Biamonti Michela Boschetto Elisabetta Carozzi
Sébastien Carré Lluís Comín Mariantonietta Davoli Corrado De Meo Ylenia Deriu
Nahoko Fujimoto Fabiana Gadano Juanjo García Martín Nataša Grandovec
Susanne Hammer Ildikó Juhász-Dora Yasuko Kanno Ji Young Kim Vanessa Kubach
Mia Kwon Julie Lake Ariel Lavian Ria Lins Ioli Livada Chiara Lucato Lieta Marziali
Mineri Matsuura Francesca Mo Olivia Monti Arduini Viktoria Münzker Sogand Nobahar
Martina Obid Mlakar Liana Pattihis Mabel Pena Rosanna Raljević Ceglar
Stefano Rossi Sara Shahak Gian Luca Staffolani Laura Stefani & Eva Franceschini
Claudia Steiner Yoko Takirai & Pietro Pellitteri Eva Tesarik Deniz Turan
Barbara Uderzo Eriko Unno Federico Vianello Yiota Vogli Qiana Wang Laura Zecchini
Categoria Studenti
Cristina Crescenzio (LA P.Selvatico) Ognyana Teneva (RAFA Anversa B) Lina Al-Dzhazzar Francesca Michelini (IED Milano) Shuang Liang Delia Perna Ruggiero (IED Torino) Emanuele Casale Silvia Martino (TADS Caserta) Federica Vecchi (SOA Milano)
Artisti Ospiti e Master Collection
Alba Polenghi Lisca, Mariarosa Franzin, Nicoletta Frigerio, Gigi Mariani, Fumiki Taguchi, Fabrizio Tridenti
Ryunjae Jung (Award 2018), Silvia Beccaria, Luisa Chiandotto, Clara Del Papa, Joo Hyung Park, Gianni Riva
Yasuko Kanno JP, Shape of the moment, spilla/brooch, silver, steel – Premio Gioielli in Fermento 2019 Allied Award
Sara Shahak IL, Sometimes purple, spilla/brooch, iron, enamel, lacquer, rubber paint, velvet powder, glass paint, miniature glass balls, stainless steel, Premio Gioielli in Fermento 2019 #gallery
Mineri Matsuura JP, Metamorphosis, spilla/brooch, oxidized silver, stainless steel, paint, Gioielli in Fermento 2019 AGC Special Mention, Klimt02 Special Mention
Corrado de Meo IT, Il Terroir, spilla/brooch, silver, wood, papier maché, acrylic paint, oxides, nitro paint, Gioielli in Fermento 2019 Jury Honourable Mention
Mariantonietta Davoli IT, C2H5OH, collana/necklace, gros-grain ribbon, waxed cotton cord, polyester, Gioielli in Fermento 2019 Putti Art Gallery Special Mention
Marilena Karagkiozi
Grecia
In my work I embrace both traditional as well as modern techniques and find great inspiration in the ensuing dialogues that my art reflects love transforming simple objects into art and the surprise caused by the unexpected charge objects and surfaces with human personalities and traits generate new materials with a child’s curiosity, weighed down by time melancholy.
The outcome is contradictory, personal and political, a cry for freedom.
I don’t always see limits between different disciplines as I restlessly experiment on new art practices try to push the limits of how jewelry is still produced and perceived as an "object" and how it is connected to a limited understanding of beauty.
I am the outcome of my story:
Since childhood I have had the passion of collecting and observing, fueling my creativity.
Texture, colors, volume, reflections, smell, taste, were some of my criteria to keep or toss my findings.
I used to create new objects using the ones I found and I never outgrew that characteristic.
My studies were in History, Archaeology & History of Art (BA, National Kapodistrian University of Athens) and they have shaped my knowledge on human and material history. At the same time, I have had, design, classic and contemporary jewelry seminars as I needed to understand my creative process and become technically skilled in order to transform my artifacts into quality pieces.
I have been awarded with the Bronze A’ Design Award as a member of the Urban Fiction design team as well as a Special Mention from the Italian association of contemporary jewelry (AGC) at the competition Jewels in Ferment 2016. Recently, I have won a scholarship from Krama Institute of Contemporary Jewelry.
Pubblicazioni
Video
Cristiana Turano Campello
Italia
Sono una creatrice di gioielli siciliana di Sciacca. Amo viaggiare e concentrarmi su ogni piccolo dettaglio che vedo. Infatti i miei gioielli sono ispirati a tutto ciò che mi circonda, mi succede e crea in me emozioni: natura, architettura, tradizioni della mia Sicilia ... rivisitate in chiave moderna, sperimentando nuove tecniche e materiali, cercando di conferire ad ogni gioiello un'anima.
I am a jewelery designer from Sicily, Sciacca. I love to travel and focus on every little detail that I see. In fact, my jewels are inspired by everything that surrounds me, it happens to me and that creates emotion in me: nature, architecture, traditions of my Sicily ... revisited in a modern way, experimenting with new techniques and materials, trying to give each jewel a soul.
Jeemin Jamie Chung
Korea
Jeemin Jamie’s work expresses her poetic vision by revealing the moments of her life. She has been focusing on showing the movements by giving colors and flow of the form as if the non-existent forms have been translated itself into the artwork. She likes to express her emotions through her artworks and to visualize the unseen forms. The core idea of her work is to think about the variety of contrasts around us that are forgotten in our lives. Her recent series: “Two Separate Ways” is continuously talking about the concept of the invisibleness by creating the artworks in different emotional state. The works are emphasized with black by reducing colors to show the isolation from her previous works. It is expressed with different emotions from her previous collections by capturing the moments of her life. She uses metal as her main material in creating her unique organic pieces.
Esme Yamaguchi
Australia | Giappone
Initially, I was inspired to start making contemporary jewellery after I came across the genre in my home country of Australia. After moving to Japan, I was fortunate to see the landmark exhibition "Kogei - A View of a Century of Modern Japanese Crafts" in 2003. The collections employing traditional Japanese metal-working techniques had an overwhelming impact, compelling me to gain the knowledge and expertise needed for experimental usage of these techniques in my own jewellery-making. Since graduating from the Tokyo University of the Arts in 2010, I have worked mainly with Asian-style engraving and Damascene inlay, expanding and diversifying the spectrum of my palette by playing with colouring and patination, experimenting with uniquely bladed engraving chisels, and pushing the boundaries of technical application. Currently, pattern is my passion, used as the focal point rather than a purely decorative and secondary component of form. I am currently based in Japan and also exhibit under the artist name of Torigaski.
Elisabetta Carozzi
Italia
Mi piace pensare a me come a un terreno, un campo e al mio lavoro come a una coltivazione, un raccolto. La qualità della terra è data dalle origini, genitori, famiglia, incontri: tutte le esperienze si sono sedimentate e hanno dato nutrimento. Lavoro alle mie collane come a un progetto, una raccolta. Come tale si può guardare da diversi punti di vista, episodi distinti di un'unica storia, un racconto. Una ricerca del bello come antidoto alla pesantezza del quotidiano. Ho iniziato con la misura. Il mio punto di vista per esprimere eleganza pulizia leggerezza. La trasparenza, il neutro come punto di forza, collane da portare, sempre. Sono attratta da altre forme e dal colore, non voglio precludermi altre possibilità, altri toni, mi sento libera di sperimentare.
I like to think of myself as a land, a field and my work as a cultivation, a harvest. The quality of the land is given by the origins, parents, family, meetings: all the experiences have settled and have given nourishment. I work on my necklaces like a project, a collection. As such it can be viewed from different points of view, distinct episodes of a single story, a tale. A search for beauty as an antidote to the heaviness of everyday life. I started with measure. My point of view to express elegance cleanliness lightness. Transparency, the neutral as a strong point, necklaces to wear, always. I am attracted to other shapes and colors, I don't want to preclude other possibilities, other tones, I feel free to experiment.